A drip under the sink can soak a cabinet floor within a week. Over a month, water can swell particleboard, loosen flooring, and leave a stain on the wall below. A small pipe leak inside a wall can keep feeding moisture into insulation and framing through an entire season.
We trace the water back to its source, whether it is a supply line, valve, faucet connection, or drain fitting. Leak repair should not wait when water is active, because each day of moisture can damage the cabinet, drywall, or floor around the fitting.
Water under the sink
Customers often call about water under the kitchen sink, a wet spot on the ceiling, a faucet that drips after the handle is off, or a toilet area with water on the floor. Another common report is a water meter that moves while every fixture is off.
A puddle at a cabinet base may come from a supply tube, drain trap, shutoff valve, or faucet body. A ceiling stain may point to a bathroom fixture above it, but the pipe route can shift the water away from the actual opening.
These symptoms can look alike from the room, yet they come from different parts and require different repairs. We inspect the fitting and pipe rather than treating every drip or stain as the same fault.
Pipe inspection callout
We start by checking visible supply lines, shutoff valves, faucet connections, drain joints, cabinet floors, and nearby walls. We isolate fixtures where possible, watch the water meter, and measure system pressure. Residential water pressure commonly falls between 40 and 80 psi, and pressure outside that range can add strain to fittings.
A visible leak check often takes 20 to 40 minutes. We can usually replace an exposed supply tube, compression fitting, cartridge, or drain seal during the same visit if the correct part is available. A leak behind tile, inside a wall, or beneath a slab may need a separate visit for access work or a more involved repair.
Shutoff valves and wall access
The repair changes with the age and condition of the failed part. A worn faucet cartridge or accessible supply tube is different from a corroded valve, a cracked pipe, or a fitting hidden behind a finished wall.
Access also matters. A leak under an open vanity allows direct work, while a pipe behind tile, cabinetry, or drywall may require careful opening and restoration by the appropriate trade.
A seized shutoff valve can add work because the water supply must be controlled before a fitting comes apart. A specialty cartridge, older valve stem, or uncommon pipe fitting may need to be ordered. Some wall or pipe work can also require sign-off depending on the scope and location.
Fixture model and access
Before calling, note which room has the leak and which fixture is involved. Check whether water is running now, whether the cabinet floor is wet, and whether the main or local shutoff valve can still turn.
If the faucet or toilet has a brand name, find the model number on the plate, underside, tank, or installation paperwork. Tell us the approximate age of the fitting and whether the pipe is behind a wall, under a cabinet, or in a crawl space.
Clear items from beneath the sink or vanity if that is where water appears. Photos of the puddle, stain, valve, or supply line can also help identify the likely part.
Call Round Rock Plumbing Company at (512) 882-1291 before active water spreads through the cabinet, drywall, or flooring.
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